Grand Lines
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Ford/Stettner



Access wise there are a few variations here. The most common way to approach is up the TeePee Glacier and then traverse across between the TeePee Col and the Glencoe Col to the bottom of the Stettner. The other option is to head up to the Lower Saddle and then continue up to the Black Dike where you can traverse across until you get to the bottom portion of the Stettner Couloir.

From here (either approach) you will climb a few “pitches” of easy snow/ice up the Stenner until you get to the Chevy Couloir. From here you make a left and climb some mixed ice/rock/snow depending on the season. This will be a few pitches and is the most serious climbing on this route. The top of the Chevy spits you out into the lower portion of the Ford Couloir. From here it’s about 1000 vert of steep bootpacking to the summit.

Descending the Ford Couloir is likely to be the best, most exposed, steepest, most exciting skiing of the entire line. Once at the top of the Chevy again it’s a couple rappels back down into the Stettner. Where, depending on the snow conditions, there will either be more skiing or more rappelling in store for you. Right before the Glencoe Spire you’ll want to head (slightly back uphill for 20-40 feet) to the left to make the traverse (on skis) over to the top of the TeePee Glacier where more solid skiing awaits you. Don’t accidentally drop either off the end of the Ford (1000+ foot cliff) off the end of the Stettner (1000+ foot cliff) or down between the TeePee Tower and Glencoe Spire (another 750+ foot cliff). Other than that, what could possibly go wrong…

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